Tortola is just a three-hour flight from Miami, and the Terrance B. Lettsome International Airport (EIS) makes flying direct simple. But if you’re coming from farther away—like I often do—another great option is to take a late-night flight to St. Thomas’s Cyril E. King Airport (STT), land mid-morning, grab a taxi, and catch the ferry to Tortola.
Once you arrive in Road Town, the energy hits you fast: colorful market stalls, live bands spilling music from local pubs, and that unmistakable island vibe. It’s where the adventure begins.
After a few trips docking in Road Town, I switched things up. Instead of the usual ferry, I now take the St. Thomas airport shuttle to the Red Hook Ferry Dock about half hour drive depending on how many stops the shuttle makes. From there, it’s just a 45-minute ferry ride to Tortola’s West End—a smaller, quieter immigration port. You also skip the 30-minute drive from Road Town.
The West End is my favorite part of the island. My favorite beach is Smuggler’s Cove, a hidden gem with a “whale tail” reef perfect for snorkeling. And just down the coast, Long Bay Beach Resort—originally built in the ’60s—was beautifully renovated after Hurricane Irma in 2017. Onsite and loctated inside an 18th-century rum disterlly is the 1748 Restaraunt, it’s menu is drawn from Caribbean cuisine. It offers an old-world charm.
The Sugar Mill Hotel sits just across from the water on Apple Bay, nestled in a lush garden setting. Once a 1640 rum distillery, it’s now one of Tortola’s top hotels—a true throwback to the classic Caribbean Inn, full of charm and history.
In winter, Apple Bay becomes a hotspot for surfers chasing the island’s best waves. And while you’re there, don’t miss Tramonti, a seaside gem right in Apple Bay. I loved sitting back with a glass of wine, watching the surf (and surfers) roll in, while savoring Mediterranean cuisine.
For dining and nightlife, Cane Garden Bay on the northwest side is where Tortola turns up the volume. I’ve had some unforgettable grilled lobster on a few islands now, but one of the best was at The Elm and for the best price—a laid-back spot known for its live music and dance-until-you-drop energy. It’s the kind of place where the band plays late and everyone’s welcome on the dance floor.
That said, during the day, the bay can get packed with cruise ship crowds. The good news? You can go to bviports.org which lists all cruise ship schedules so you can plan your visit when the beach is quieter and more relaxed.
Nestled on the West End of Tortola, Soper’s Hole Wharf and Marina is more than just a picturesque docking point—it’s a vibrant community hub. From the BVI Spring Regatta and Sailing Festival to local celebrations of music, food, and art, there’s always something happening.
My go-to hangouts?
- Omar’s Fusion – A can’t-miss for happy hour with a flavorful twist of Indian and Caribbean cuisine.
- Admiral’s Pub – Dockside views, laid-back charm, and island cocktails that hit the spot.
Whether you’re soaking in the live tunes from local bands or sipping a rum punch under the stars, Soper’s Hole delivers the perfect mix of outdoor fun and local flavor.
My adventures on Tortola’s West End have been nothing short of unforgettable — snorkeling in crystal-clear waters, dancing barefoot to the rhythm of island beats, and hopping from one sun-drenched cove to the next.
Happy hour here isn’t just a time of day — it’s a way of life. I’ve shared rum punches and stories with locals and travelers from around the globe, each with their own tale of how they ended up in paradise.
From spontaneous jam sessions to boat rides that turn into lifelong memories, the West End has a way of pulling you in and making you feel right at home.
